Friday, October 23, 2009

a city of pubs

As the London autumn chill starts to set in, there are few things I am more thankful for than Costa coffee and London pubs. Pubs, short for public houses, are a staple of British culture and there are more than 5,000 in London alone, according to brittania.com. 

Pubs are the home of comfort food, a friendly, laid-back atmosphere and, of course, a few pints. My favorite menu options are the classic fish and chips (chips means fries), shepherd's pie, homemade soup, steak and ale pie and juicy burgers with vinegar chips. Pub prices are not cheap with the exchange rate. A dinner is around 10 pounds ($17) and a pint is typically around 3 quid (slang for pounds). With all these good ales and bowls of chips I'm losing a lot of pounds, but gaining weight. 

There are a few things American students, especially broke American students, should know about London pubs. Most every employee in this country, from waiters to taxi drivers, are paid on salary and do not work based on tips. Most pubs include service in your food's price, so keep your pence in your purse. Other important differences to note are that at many pubs it's common to seat yourself and then order at the bar. You tell the bartender where you're sitting, and someone will bring you your food when it's ready. But don't expect anyone to come ask you how your food is or to bring you the check. Since the staff isn't working on tips, they normally leave customers alone and you have to tell someone or go up to the bar yourself when you're ready to pay. Also, many places in London label restrooms as 'loo' and exits as 'way out,' a self-explanatory but notable difference.

Less than a minute's walk away from my flat is a quiet pub called The Larrick, where I've started to take part in the British tradition of eating Sunday roast. At every pub I've been to, a special roast beef or chicken is served every Sunday, normally with mashed potatoes, loads of gravy, Yorkshire pudding and vegetables. The Larrick has a fine selection of beer and is never crowded. For a night on the town I would rather be surrounded by young people dancing to Chipmunk (UK's Kanye West, only not obnoxious and new to the music scene), but on a relaxed, Sunday night nothing beats pub food in my backyard. I'm sure Londoners could argue for hours over which pubs are the best, and I doubt if my tiny, neighborhood pub would make the cut, but The Larrick's over-sized lounge chairs and dim candlelight is inviting. We always have our choice of table, and normally sit in the back where it's quiet and NFL games are playing on TV. 

Outside The Larrick's windows, red double-decker busses, classic London telephone booths and Brits with accents are reminders that I'm far from home. Coming to a foreign country, it takes time to find a new source of familiarity and comfort. Sitting in a warm pub, whether it's across the street or across the city, it only takes a pint.