american invasion

This article was published in the Daily Orange on Thursday, October 29th.

This week in London, America invaded. My parents visited.

On my first day in London, the SU London program rattled of safety rules and social norms for more than an hour. They outlined key slang words (quid=bucks, biscuits=cookies, Oyster card=payment for the tube or bus). They detailed how to navigate the city by bus, underground, taxi or foot. They explained Brits love manners, and would never yell, “Help!” but instead say, “Excuse me, I know you’re busy, but would you mind possibly helping me please?”

My parents missed this lecture.

My mother tried to take pictures while crossing the street, but London traffic is insane and pedestrians do not have the right-of-way. My dad approached a man working in the street yelling, “Hey, where’s the subway?” My mom brought a purse that doesn’t zipper shut to a city of pick-pocketers. They both carried their passports, even though stolen passports sell for thousands of dollars. My parents were surprised by the thought of ordering dinner at the bar and signs that say ‘way out’ instead of ‘exit.’ They marveled over the smallness of their hotel room and mentioned daily how well dressed everyone is. I realize that I’m not a London expert, but my parents showed me how much I’ve become accustomed to.

There was a comfortable unfamiliarity to having my parents here. I loved catching up with them, but it was odd to see them walking where I go to class and figuring out the city. For a week, our distant worlds collided. I woke up early before class to show them my favorite park and rushed off between classes to show them the Tower of London and Tower Bridge. I did things I normally don’t spend money on, like eat out every day, sit front-row at a West End play and ride the London Eye. We saw every major tourist attraction London has to offer, but also where I run, my local pub, and the best place to get cupcakes (Harrods Food Hall).

By Sunday Dennis and Judy saw every part of the city, so I asked if they wanted to go to Stonehenge.

“I want to use your laptop,” dad said. “I want to look up and visit the station Jason Bourne goes to in The Bourne Ultimatum.”

 I sometimes cannot believe the daily happenings of my life. We went to Waterloo, the largest (24.5 acre) station in the UK, according to Network Rail. While there, we stopped at a pub and met a Brit on his way to the NFL game at Wembley Stadium. All day we saw people wearing American football jerseys from dozens of teams. A man in a Patriots jersey held hands with a woman in a Giants jersey, next to a guy wearing the Miami Dolphins. The Brit explained that here, American football is American football. People see games without really understanding who’s playing. He goes because he likes the exciting atmosphere of it.

“We all wear whatever American football clothes we have,” he said.

After lunch, my mom took a picture of the ‘look left’ and ‘look right’ road signs that are painted on almost every intersection in London (to remind pedestrians to be careful). In America, this would be like taking a picture of a ‘yield’ sign; it’s just weird. About the same time, my pub friend went to watch the Patriots vs. Buccaneers with a guy in a Steelers jersey. When America comes to London, whether it’s my parents or the NFL, both the Americans and the British have lessons to learn.

a city of pubs

As the London autumn chill starts to set in, there are few things I am more thankful for than Costa coffee and London pubs. Pubs, short for public houses, are a staple of British culture and there are more than 5,000 in London alone, according to brittania.com. 

Pubs are the home of comfort food, a friendly, laid-back atmosphere and, of course, a few pints. My favorite menu options are the classic fish and chips (chips means fries), shepherd's pie, homemade soup, steak and ale pie and juicy burgers with vinegar chips. Pub prices are not cheap with the exchange rate. A dinner is around 10 pounds ($17) and a pint is typically around 3 quid (slang for pounds). With all these good ales and bowls of chips I'm losing a lot of pounds, but gaining weight. 

There are a few things American students, especially broke American students, should know about London pubs. Most every employee in this country, from waiters to taxi drivers, are paid on salary and do not work based on tips. Most pubs include service in your food's price, so keep your pence in your purse. Other important differences to note are that at many pubs it's common to seat yourself and then order at the bar. You tell the bartender where you're sitting, and someone will bring you your food when it's ready. But don't expect anyone to come ask you how your food is or to bring you the check. Since the staff isn't working on tips, they normally leave customers alone and you have to tell someone or go up to the bar yourself when you're ready to pay. Also, many places in London label restrooms as 'loo' and exits as 'way out,' a self-explanatory but notable difference.

Less than a minute's walk away from my flat is a quiet pub called The Larrick, where I've started to take part in the British tradition of eating Sunday roast. At every pub I've been to, a special roast beef or chicken is served every Sunday, normally with mashed potatoes, loads of gravy, Yorkshire pudding and vegetables. The Larrick has a fine selection of beer and is never crowded. For a night on the town I would rather be surrounded by young people dancing to Chipmunk (UK's Kanye West, only not obnoxious and new to the music scene), but on a relaxed, Sunday night nothing beats pub food in my backyard. I'm sure Londoners could argue for hours over which pubs are the best, and I doubt if my tiny, neighborhood pub would make the cut, but The Larrick's over-sized lounge chairs and dim candlelight is inviting. We always have our choice of table, and normally sit in the back where it's quiet and NFL games are playing on TV. 

Outside The Larrick's windows, red double-decker busses, classic London telephone booths and Brits with accents are reminders that I'm far from home. Coming to a foreign country, it takes time to find a new source of familiarity and comfort. Sitting in a warm pub, whether it's across the street or across the city, it only takes a pint.

busy bee

A brief apology for the lack of posts: I am super busy with schoolwork, planning for semester break, and enjoying my parents' visit to London. Five midterms in two days is keeping me on my toes! I'll blog again soon.

last minute deals

Fall break starts next Friday- a week, a day, and a half hour away. We still haven't booked anything. I think the problem is that, with all of Europe as fair game, we can't decide where to go. Even more confusing is trying to figure out what the best way to get around is. A Mediterranean cruise around Greece? Hosteling our way through Italy? Sunbathing off the coast of Spain? Tomorrow's our (self-proclaimed) deadline, although today was a deadline too. Looks like last minute deals are our only option now...

I'm sure whatever we do will be great.

caffeine dilemma

Not to be a coffee snob, but this girl needs caffeine and lately Britain just isn't cutting it. First off, coffee with cream isn't an option at every coffee chain. Why? I have no clue. Caffe Americano is not filter coffee, but watered down espresso. Kind of gross. The height of my coffee chain disappointment is that hazelnut coffee, my ultimate favorite morning beverage, does not exist. 

These things are all sad facts I learned early on in Britain, but yesterday I was given a whole new disappointment. Fall has started to settle in here. Leaves are changing, the wind's blowing and the weather is colder. Like the US, there's a Starbucks on nearly every corner here. Fall at Starbucks means one thing- Pumpkin Spice Latte. I rushed off before class, so excited to get one, only to find Starbucks doesn't have them. I ran down to the next coffee shop, Costa, but they didn't have it either. 5 Coffee chains and not a single one has pumpkin spice. I settled for some sub-par coffee and got ready to go to class. Just as I was walking out the door, Taylor Swift came on the coffee shop radio. As happy as I was, you've got to wonder... how is it that they have country music but not flavored coffee?

the special relationship

This article was published in The Daily Orange on October 15th.

When I decided to study abroad in London I knew the language would be the same, but I had no idea how much else would be similar too. Winston Churchill coined the term special relationship in reference to the US and Britain’s WWII alliance. Since then, the countries have collaborated on issues from foreign affairs to trade agreements. When the British needed help fighting in Argentina in the 80s, the US was there. Similarly, when other countries hesitated to support American foreign wars after 9/11, Prime Minister Blair didn’t.

London’s Saint Paul’s Cathedral is a historic landmark symbolizing hope and British strength. For 1400 years a cathedral has been on its site, with the present cathedral created 300 years ago. St. Paul’s holds memorials to British heroes of the past and, as a working church, has also been home to historical services such as the funeral of Sir Winston Churchill. It’s come to represent the resilience of the British people because it was bombed heavily during WWII but, like Britain, is still standing.

St. Paul’s is full of marble statues and enormous jewel-colored mosaics on its high ceilings. At this site of British nationalism, directly behind the High Altar, is the American Memorial Chapel dedicated to US Servicemen stationed in the UK who perished during WWII. Symbolically, in the same place Britain pays respect to its country it also respects ours. But the ties that bind the US and UK go beyond government cooperation.

Beyonce, Lady Gage and Jay-Z dominate the UK Top 100 singles chart. Friends, The Hills, Scrubs and True Blood are constantly on TV. Abercrombie and Fitch is still a teenage staple. I’ve even heard The Boss’s "Born in the U.S.A." get played by a DJ (and no, not at Sports Café). Starbucks, McDonalds, Pizza Hut and KFC all line the streets. With so much in common, it seems like more than 3000 miles really isn’t that far.

Don’t get me wrong; Britain is definitely its own country. The soccer obsession, amazing pub food, classic taxis, telephone booths and landmarks are all things America doesn’t have. There are rules about manners and etiquette for escalators that the US would never abide by, and there’s always the monarchy to admire. Still, even in this distant country I can see similarities to home.

Historically, economically and culturally, a bond exists between Britain and America. This special relationship is discussed at length in my classes here, but it’s taught in more than just the classroom. As the weeks continue to roll by, a new branch of this bond grows increasingly in my own personal outlook. I feel like I belong in this city now. My random fits of homesickness are getting fewer and farther between. My daily commute and favorite places to grab coffee are becoming more routine. I love America. I’m excited to get back to country music, apple pies and 24-hour stores, but this country and all its quirks are starting to feel a little like home, too. 

upcoming visitors

My parents are coming to visit in less than a week! Their flight comes in Monday morning, and I think the only people more excited about this than me right now, are them. For the past couple of days while I wait for the tube or start to daydream in class, all I can think about is what we will do. I've been planning what sites I want to show them and when we'll go to all my favorite places. I've been thinking about how to tell them to navigate around the city and debating which things we should do together and what they should do while I'm in class. I know they're doing the same things, obsessing over packing and what time their flights are. When I asked them what they wanted to see most, they wrote back Courtney. I think the same thing about them.

It's been less than two months since I've seen them last, and I'm not sure if that's the longest stretch of time or not. Going to college less than two hours from home means I see my family pretty often, a luxery I've been grateful to have. Regardless of whether this is the longest we've been apart or not, I think the time stretch feels bigger than it is because there hasn't been an opportunity for me to see them. At school, if I go a month or two without traveling home, that's my decision. But here in London, I've wished a million times to be back in mom's kitchen or walking over to see dad at the farm. I can't wait for them to come see everything London has to offer, and to spend some time with them again. I'm counting down the days (and rushing to finish midterm work before they arrive)!

how's the weather?

I expected London to be rainy, gloomy and damp, and am happy to say I was wrong. The weather in Britain for the past seven weeks has been absolutely beautiful. Though not hot, the sun is normally shining and it's only rained a few days. It's brisk and breezy without being unbearably windy and cold.

This morning I woke up early to run in the park, and had to wear two long-sleeve shirts. I thought this was the beginning of the cold season. I contemplated dragging out my wool coat from under a pile of suitcases. By the time I took a shower, watched the news and ate breakfast, the sun was out again and a light sweater was all I needed.

Walking to class, I laughed knowing that last night my roommates in Syracuse had to turn on the heater, as the temperatures dropped to the low 30's. Seeing any sunshine in Syracuse becomes a a rarity around this time of year, making everything just a little bit gloomier. For me, today's forecast is 16 Celsius, around 60 Fahrenheit, and there isn't a cloud in the sky. Anyone who thinks London has bad weather must have never lived in Syracuse.

upcoming trips!

As much as I love the city of London, sometimes I feel like I have seen a lot of the things to see here already. It's time for some trips! Friday I am going to Dover Castle, which is in Kent and was very important to the British and French in WWII. The following Friday I am going to Hampton Court Palace, which is supposed to be one of the best palaces in London. Both these trips are through the school and free with a £10 deposit, though they require meeting at the school at 8:30 a.m. Friday morning...

I also just applied to do Host UK, which is a program that lets international students stay with a family for a weekend in some area of the UK. You fill out information about yourself, three weekends that you're available, and how far you're willing to travel (I said anywhere) and they match you up with a family. The earliest I can go is November, but I am very excited to see what life is like outside the city. I want to be matched up with a family in Scotland, so I can see the country, but you can't really pick your location. The program costs £40, but the school gives SU students £20 towards the cost. The family pays for your meals and you sleep in their house, but you need to pay for your travel to go visit them, though you set a limit for how much you're willing to pay for travel and the program doesn't match you up with an expensive, far away place if you don't want it. I can't wait to hear where they match me up!!

Aside from that, I'm also planning to go to Italy for mid semester break, Ireland near Thanksgiving, and Brussels with my European Union class in mid-November (Brussels isn't somewhere I would ever pick to go, so I thought it would be fun to see a random city, and I'm also interested in getting to see the EU.) I had thought about going to Spain, but the trip to Paris actually wound up being pretty pricey with the cost of travel, dining out, and the hostel- and since I don't actually have anything specific I want to see in Spain, I decided against it. The only other places I really would like to see are Scotland and Greece- so I'm going to work on that.

saturday in london

After a fun-filled but tiring weekend to Paris, we decided to stay in London for this weekend. Most of my time was spent catching up on sleep and homework, but I did get to do some sightseeing. Saturday I saw the Kensington Gardens and Kensington Palace, which were both lovely. The gardens were filled with families, children and dogs, and it was nice to walk around and people watch. Kensington Palace is open for tours and has on display Princess Diana's gowns and exhibits on the debutant balls and their history in Britain. Seeing all the beautiful clothing was so fun, and the tour was filled with little information about all the balls that used to go on at the palace (like how big the cakes were, how the clothes were made, and what proper etiquette at balls is).

Later on, we went to Harrods and saw all the posh displays of expensive clothing. Everything was so luxurious- even a simple headband was nearly $100! The shoes there were amazing, and all just open on display. We picked up one high heel and saw it cost nearly three grand, just laying out on the table! You'd think they would keep something so pricey under a glass case. I couldn't stay too long in Harrods, because in my blue jeans and cowboy boots I felt horribly out of place and my life savings wouldn't be enough to buy me a new outfit there. Still, seeing the store was a lot of fun.

At night we had a relaxing dinner out, a nice change of pace from cooking dinner every night, before meeting some friends out for drinks. It's really nice to have so many options for how to spend a Saturday. I think if I was at SU, I would have just gone to the football game, done some homework, and go to a house party with friends. I enjoy doing those things, and I miss them a little, but I really appreciate all the options London offers.

when in paris...

Paris is home to dozens of tourist attractions and historical sites, so it's easy to think of a list of things to do when you're there. The hard part is figuring out how to see everything you want to see in the limited time you have. Two of the tours I went on were extreamly good, and I'd recommend them both, so since a lot of people in London visit Paris as well, here's the details on them.

The FREE Walking Tour:
This tour runs daily, twice a day, and is completely free. We had a young, student guide named Kayla who, in less than four hours, showed us almost every single tourist site in Paris. The tour is through New Europe tours, and offered in many major European cities. We met Kayla in the Latin Quarter and walked the whole city in a group of around thirty people. I liked the tour because Kayla knew so much information about everything we saw, and was able to give us great backgrounds on each site. She also showed us a lot of things I hadn't thought to or planned on seeing, but really enjoyed, like the fountain in the middle of the Latin Quarter where students held riots in the 60s. Kayla also was great at answering questions and told us how to get where we wanted to go, when to see certain sites to get the cheapest deals, and where to go out at night. She even showed us the exact lampost that Big and Carrie meet at in the American Girl in Paris Sex and the City episode!! The tour took a lot out of us because we were walking around in the hot sun for so long, but I was happy to see everything quickly and feel like I could spend the rest of my time going back to sites I wanted to explore more at a slower pace. I'd recommend doing this tour early on in your trip (we went about 20minutes after we got into France) so that you have an idea of where everything is and can find your way back to things you really enjoyed.

The On-Off River Tour:
Originally, we were going to do a lunch cruise of the Seine River, but these tours are often expensive and a lot of them required us to book ahead. What we wound up doing was a 12 euro boat tour that lets you get on the boat wherever you'd like, but stops at around ten major sites (like the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, and Notre Dame) and lets you get off if you like. Then you can use your ticket and get back on the tour when you're done. This was nice beacuse it cut down on how much we had to walk or take the tube, and let us relax on the river inbetween stops. You can get on and off all day, up until 7 p.m., so go early and let the tour double as your transportation for the day.

the france fifteen

One of the most amazing parts about Paris was the food. Everything I ate in the five days I was there tasted like heaven and with each new bite I found myself saying, "This is the best thing yet!" The stereotype of French people roaming the streets with baguettes is a stereotype because it's true. On every street and at any hour of the day people walk around munching on the freshest, most delicious little loafs of bread. Every street we walked on had at least one perfect bakery with glass windows filled of handmade treats. My favorite foods, though it's hard to pick, were the chocolate eclairs, tartes aux pommes (apple tarts), croissants, and pain aux chocolatte (croissant with chocolate stuffed inside). I also had a petit tartine, which is like a baby cheesy, saucy pizza on a freshly made baguette.

Most of the time we ate at small, delicious bakeries and roadside shops, but we did have a few sit down meals. I thoroughly enjoyed french breakfast both times I had it. The first time, I had fresh orange juice, coffee, and an omelette at a small, outdoor cafe. The second time, I relaxed while waiting for the Eurostar in the train station and had fresh juice, tea, a croissant, and a baguette. Both meals appear to be typical for French breakfasts.

At our one sit down dinner, I had french onion soup (which was hands down the best soup I have ever had), fresh salmon, and chocolatte mousse. It was delicious- and less than 25 euros!

We stopped in for a sit-down lunch a few times, but I found it to be mediocre food and overpriced. I would recommend just eating at small, privately owned bakeries instead because I thought the people there were friendlier and the food was inexpensive and irresistable.

For the entire extended weekend there, my roommates and I let our food inhabitions go, threw any ideas of diets down the drain, and let our taste buds go nuts. I didn't buy anyone gifts in France because the best gift the country had to offer was its food, and I knew it wouldn't make the journey back to the US. Back here in London, I'm back to normal eating habits. I miss the food, but for my health's sake, I'm glad I didn't choose to study abroad in France!!